Welcome to the most comprehensive Concrete Frequently Asked Questions resource for UK construction. Whether you're a homeowner planning a driveway, a contractor pricing a project, or a DIY enthusiast tackling garden improvements, our extensive FAQ database provides expert answers to hundreds of common concrete questions.
All answers are based on current UK standards including BS EN 206, BS 8500, and Building Regulations, updated for 2026 with current pricing, techniques, and best practices.
General Concrete Questions
What is concrete made from?
Concrete is a composite material made from four main components: (1) Cement - typically Portland cement (CEM I) acting as the binding agent (10-15% by volume), (2) Aggregates - sand (fine aggregate 0-4mm) and gravel/crushed stone (coarse aggregate 4-20mm) forming 60-80% of volume, (3) Water - for cement hydration and workability (typically 15-20% by weight of cement), and (4) Sometimes admixtures - chemicals to modify properties like workability, setting time, or air entrainment. The cement reacts with water (hydration) to form a hard matrix binding the aggregates together, creating a stone-like material.
What's the difference between concrete and cement?
Cement is a fine powder ingredient, while concrete is the complete finished product. Cement (usually Portland cement) is the binding agent that holds concrete together - it comprises only 10-15% of concrete by volume. Concrete is the mixture of cement + aggregates (sand and gravel) + water + sometimes admixtures. Think of it like flour vs cake: cement is like flour (one ingredient), concrete is like the finished cake (all ingredients mixed). You can't use cement alone for construction - it must be mixed with aggregates and water to make usable concrete.
How long does concrete take to dry/cure?
Concrete doesn't "dry" - it cures through chemical reaction (hydration). Timeline: Initial set 2-4 hours (can't be reworked), final set 4-8 hours (hardened but not strong), light foot traffic 24-48 hours, light vehicle traffic 7 days, full design strength 28 days (used for structural calculations), continues curing for months/years (can reach 110-125% of 28-day strength after 1 year). Minimum recommended curing period is 7 days keeping concrete moist. Never rush - premature loading or drying significantly reduces final strength. For driveways, wait minimum 7 days before driving, preferably 14 days for full loads.
Can concrete be laid in rain?
Light rain during/immediately after pour is manageable but not ideal. Heavy rain should be avoided as it: washes cement off surface creating weak top layer, adds unwanted water increasing water-cement ratio (reduces strength), causes surface defects and poor finish, can cause erosion before concrete sets. If rain forecast: delay pour if possible, have tarpaulins ready to cover fresh concrete, never add water to compensate for rain (weakens concrete), brush off standing water carefully, consider retarder admixture to extend working time. Once initial set occurs (2-4 hours), light rain won't harm concrete. Heavy rain on unset concrete can require complete replacement.
Can you lay concrete in winter?
Yes, but requires precautions when temperatures below 5°C. Cold weather concreting challenges: slower setting and strength gain, risk of freezing (water in concrete expands, causing permanent damage), reduced final strength if frozen before achieving 5 MPa. Precautions: use accelerating admixtures to speed setting, consider heated concrete (premium cost), insulate with blankets or straw after pouring, protect from freezing for minimum 48 hours, extend curing period (double normal time in cold), never lay if temperature forecast to drop below 0°C within 24 hours. Summer is ideal, but winter work possible with proper measures. Many suppliers offer "winter mix" with built-in protections.
How thick should concrete be?
Depends on application: Domestic driveways 100mm minimum (150mm for heavy vehicles), Patios and paths 75-100mm, Garage floors 100mm, House floor slabs 100-150mm (structural engineer specifies), Commercial/industrial floors 150-200mm+, Foundations variable (engineer designs based on loads and ground conditions). Insufficient thickness causes cracking and failure - never reduce below minimums to save money. Thickness must also consider reinforcement requirements. For structural elements (beams, columns, suspended slabs), thickness determined by structural engineer per Eurocode 2 calculations - never guess.
Why does concrete crack?
Common causes: (1) Shrinkage - concrete shrinks 0.03-0.06% as it cures, causing stress cracks if restrained, (2) Inadequate joints - need control joints every 3-4m to accommodate movement, (3) Poor sub-base - settlement causes cracks, (4) Insufficient thickness - too thin for loads applied, (5) Rapid drying - especially in hot/windy conditions, (6) Freeze-thaw damage - water in pores freezes and expands, (7) Overloading - exceeding design capacity, (8) Poor curing - insufficient moisture during curing, (9) Excessive water - high water-cement ratio creates weak, porous concrete, (10) Corrosion - rusting reinforcement expands and cracks concrete. Prevention: proper mix design, adequate thickness, good sub-base, control joints, proper curing, appropriate grade selection.
Is cracked concrete a problem?
Depends on crack type and location: Fine hairline cracks (<0.3mm) - usually cosmetic, result of normal shrinkage, generally not structural concern. Wider cracks (0.3-1mm) - may indicate issues, allow water penetration, should be investigated. Large cracks (>1mm) - likely structural problem or significant issue, require professional assessment. Pattern cracks (map cracking) - indicate poor curing or excess water, reduce durability. Through-cracks - completely penetrate slab, major concern. Vertical movement - indicates settlement issues. For structural elements (foundations, beams), ANY cracking should be assessed by structural engineer. For driveways/patios, small cracks often acceptable but reduce appearance. Repair options range from crack fillers to complete replacement depending on severity.
Concrete Grades & Specifications
What do concrete grades mean (e.g., C20/25)?
Concrete grades use format C[cylinder]/[cube] indicating compressive strength in N/mm² (MPa). C20/25 means: 'C' = normal-weight concrete, '20' = cylinder strength (20 MPa tested on 150mm diameter × 300mm high cylinder), '25' = cube strength (25 MPa tested on 150mm cube). Both measured after 28 days standard curing. Cube strength typically 20-25% higher than cylinder due to specimen geometry. Grades range C8/10 (weakest, blinding only) to C50/60+ (high-strength specialist). Higher numbers = stronger concrete = more load capacity and durability = higher cost. See our
Concrete Grades Guide for complete information.
What concrete grade for house foundations?
C20/25 (GEN3) is standard for typical 2-storey house strip foundations in normal ground conditions. Use C25/30 (RC25) minimum if reinforcement required (raft foundations, poor ground, beam and block). For trench fill foundations, C15/20 or C20/25 acceptable. Ground conditions affect specification: aggressive soils (high sulfates) require sulfate-resistant cement and possibly higher grades (FND3 or FND4 designated mixes). Buildings over 2 storeys, unusual loads, or poor ground require structural engineer design - may need C25/30 or higher. Always verify with Building Control and obtain structural calculations if uncertain. Using incorrect grade voids Building Regulations approval and risks structural failure.
What's the difference between C20/25 and C25/30?
C25/30 is approximately 20% stronger than C20/25. C20/25 (GEN3): 20/25 MPa strength, suitable for unreinforced domestic work (foundations, floor slabs, driveways), costs £90-110/m³. C25/30 (RC25): 25/30 MPa strength, minimum for reinforced concrete structures (beams, columns, RC slabs), costs £95-120/m³ (8-12% more). Key differences: C25/30 required by Eurocode 2 for all reinforced concrete work, provides better durability in harsh exposure, allows reduced cover to reinforcement, costs slightly more but essential where specified. Never substitute C20/25 for C25/30 in structural/reinforced work - violates design requirements and Building Regulations.
What are GEN, RC, and PAV mixes?
BS 8500 designated concrete mixes simplifying specification: GEN Series (General purpose, unreinforced): GEN0 (C8/10) blinding, GEN1 (C10/12) mass fill, GEN2 (C16/20) oversite, GEN3 (C20/25) foundations/floors. RC Series (Reinforced Concrete): RC25 (C25/30) standard RC, RC30 (C28/35) moderate exposure, RC32 (C32/40) aggressive exposure, RC40 (C35/45) very aggressive. PAV Series (Paving): PAV1 (C32/40) heavy-duty paving, PAV2 (C40/50) very heavy commercial. FND Series (Foundations): FND2-4 for different ground chemical conditions. Advantages: simple ordering (just say "GEN3"), transfers mix design to producer, ensures BS 8500 compliance. Most common: GEN3 for domestic, RC25 for structural.
Can I use C40/50 for a driveway?
You can, but it's massive over-specification and waste of money. C40/50 costs £120-150/m³ vs £90-110/m³ for adequate C20/25 - you'd pay 30-40% premium for zero practical benefit. C40/50 is specialist grade for: commercial roads, bridges, chemical containment, structures requiring exceptional strength/durability. Domestic driveways need only C20/25 (normal cars) or maximum C25/30 (heavy vehicles). The extra strength provides no advantage - your driveway won't last longer or perform better with C40/50. It's like using aircraft-grade aluminum for garden furniture - technically superior but completely unnecessary and expensive. Specify C20/25 for domestic driveways and save your money.
Do I need reinforced concrete?
Reinforcement (steel bars/mesh) needed when: structural elements (beams, columns, suspended slabs) - always required, ground floor slabs over poor/variable ground, large spans without intermediate support, areas subject to tension forces, rafts and pile caps, retaining walls and basement walls, driveways with known ground settlement issues. NOT needed for: standard house strip foundations on firm ground, domestic ground-bearing floor slabs on good sub-base, patios and paths, garage bases on stable ground, standard driveways. Reinforcement increases cost significantly: materials £2-5/m² mesh or £3-8/m for bars, plus labour for fixing. If engineer specifies reinforcement, never omit - it's structurally essential. If unsure, structural engineer assesses whether reinforcement required.
Costs & Pricing Questions
How much does ready-mix concrete cost UK 2026?
Current UK ready-mix prices: C8/10 (blinding) £80-95/m³, C20/25 (domestic standard) £90-110/m³, C25/30 (structural) £95-120/m³, C30/37 £105-130/m³, C40/50 (specialist) £120-150/m³. Add delivery costs: within 5 miles £40-60, 5-10 miles £60-80, 10-15 miles £80-120, 15-20 miles £120-160, beyond 20 miles £10-15/mile. Small load surcharge (under 6m³) £40-80. Regional variations: London/Southeast +15-25%, Northern England -5-10%, Scotland/Wales comparable to national average. Total delivered cost for typical 6m³ C20/25 order: £600-720 including delivery. See our
Cost Guide for detailed breakdowns.
How much do concreters charge?
UK concreter rates 2026: Experienced concreters £200-300/day (London £250-300, North £180-230). Hourly rates £25-40/hour. Labour gangs (3-4 workers for larger pours) £600-1,000/day. Groundworkers (excavation, formwork) £180-250/day. Rates include: site setup, concrete placement, leveling, finishing, cleanup. Exclude: materials, concrete delivery, pump hire, extensive site preparation. For projects quoted by m²: driveways £25-45/m² labour, patios £20-35/m² labour, floors £15-30/m² labour. Complex work (pattern imprinted, exposed aggregate) commands 30-50% premium. Always get written quotes specifying day rates, estimated duration, included/excluded items.
How much does a concrete driveway cost?
Concrete driveway costs £50-85/m² fully installed (materials + labour). Breakdown: materials (concrete £25-35/m², sub-base £10-15/m², DPM/mesh £3-5/m²) total £38-55/m², labour £25-45/m² for excavation, laying, finishing. Typical single driveway (30m²) total cost £1,500-2,550. Double driveway (50m²) £2,500-4,250. Factors affecting cost: size (larger cheaper per m² due to economy of scale), access (difficult access adds pump hire £200-400), thickness (100mm standard, 150mm heavy vehicles adds 50%), finish (basic vs pattern imprinted +£10-20/m²), location (London +25-30%). See
Driveway Cost Guide.
Is ready-mix or DIY mixing cheaper?
Ready-mix is cheaper for volumes above 1m³ and vastly superior quality. For 5m³ comparison: Ready-mix £500-550 (£100-110/m³) delivered in hours. DIY requires: cement 100 bags @ £6 = £600, aggregates 7 tonnes @ £40/tonne = £280, mixer hire £60/day × 2 = £120, subtotal £1,000+ plus 16+ hours heavy labor. Ready-mix advantages: guaranteed strength (BS EN 206 certified), consistent quality, professional mixing, saves enormous time/effort, no equipment needed, technical support. DIY disadvantages: inconsistent mixing, physically exhausting, takes days not hours, no strength guarantee, risk of mistakes. DIY only viable for tiny jobs (<0.5m³) where mixer owned and time unlimited. For any structural work, always use ready-mix.
What's the minimum concrete order?
Most UK suppliers require 6m³ minimum (approximately 1 full truck mixer load). Orders below minimum incur small load surcharge £40-80. Some suppliers offer 3-4m³ minimums at higher per m³ rates. For very small needs (<1m³): pre-mixed bagged concrete (expensive but convenient), hire mixer and mix on-site (viable for 0.5-2m³), or combine projects with neighbors to reach minimum economically. One cubic metre = 10m² at 100mm thickness, so 6m³ = 60m² coverage. If your project is close to minimum, round up rather than risk shortfall - leftover concrete cheaper than emergency second delivery. Planning multiple small projects together optimizes costs.
How much does concrete pump hire cost?
Concrete pump hire: Line pump (domestic work, reaches 30-50m horizontally) £200-280 half day (4 hours), £280-350 full day. Boom pump (commercial work, reaches 20-40m vertically) £300-450/day. Operator included in price. When needed: truck can't access pour location (restricted access, over garages, rear gardens), long distance from road to pour location (>20m), large volume requiring fast continuous placement, difficult site levels. Not needed if: truck can pour directly into position - saves £200-400. Book 1-2 weeks ahead (more in summer). Urban areas typically cheaper (more competition) than rural. Factor into budget for inaccessible sites.
Project-Specific Questions
What concrete grade for driveways?
C20/25 (GEN3) sufficient for standard domestic driveways with normal car use. Upgrade to C25/30 if: heavy vehicles (large SUVs, vans, trailers) regularly use driveway, commercial use or frequent heavy traffic, known poor ground conditions, driveway also serves as turning area for deliveries. Use C30/37 for commercial/industrial driveways with regular HGV traffic. Thickness more critical than grade: 100mm minimum for cars, 150mm for heavy vehicles. Other essentials: 100-150mm MOT Type 1 sub-base, proper compaction, DPM to prevent moisture rise, control joints every 3-4m, air-entrained concrete for freeze-thaw resistance. Cost difference C20/25 to C25/30 only 8-12%, but strength 20% higher.
How much concrete for a driveway?
Calculate: Length (m) × Width (m) × Thickness (m) = Volume (m³). Common driveway sizes: Single car (3m × 5m × 0.1m) = 1.5m³, Single car (4m × 6m × 0.1m) = 2.4m³, Large single (5m × 8m × 0.1m) = 4m³, Double (5m × 10m × 0.1m) = 5m³, Large double (6m × 12m × 0.1m) = 7.2m³. Add 10% for wastage and irregularities. For heavy vehicles, use 0.15m (150mm) thickness instead of 0.1m in calculation. Example: 4m × 6m double driveway at 100mm = 4 × 6 × 0.1 = 2.4m³ + 10% = 2.64m³, round to 3m³ order. Use our
Concrete Calculator for precise calculations.
How much does a garage base cost?
Single garage base (3m × 6m = 18m²) £800-1,500 fully installed. Double garage (6m × 6m = 36m²) £1,600-2,500. Breakdown: Excavation (200mm depth) £150-300 single, £300-500 double. Sub-base (100mm MOT Type 1) £150-250 single, £300-450 double. DPM £30-50 single, £60-90 double. Concrete (100mm C20/25) £200-350 single, £400-650 double. Labour £400-800 single, £800-1,300 double. Optional extras: drainage £200-500, thicker concrete for heavy vehicles +30%, services (power, water) £300-800. Ground conditions affect cost - soft ground requires deeper excavation/thicker sub-base. Does not include garage construction itself, only ground slab. London prices +25-30%.
What's the best concrete finish for driveways?
Options by increasing cost: (1) Brushed finish - simple, non-slip, textured, economical (no premium cost), ideal for utilitarian driveways. (2) Smooth troweled - clean appearance, slightly slippery when wet, no extra cost. (3) Exposed aggregate - decorative stones exposed, excellent grip, attractive, +£5-10/m². (4) Pattern imprinted/stamped - mimics brick/stone patterns, many colors available, +£10-20/m². (5) Polished - smooth high-sheen finish, mainly for interior, very slippery outside, not recommended for driveways. Best for UK driveways: brushed or exposed aggregate (slip-resistant, durable, good appearance). Pattern imprinted popular but requires skilled applicator and resealing every 2-3 years. Avoid plain smooth - very slippery in rain/ice.
Do I need planning permission for a concrete driveway?
Usually NO planning permission required under Permitted Development if: driveway surface permeable (allows water drainage) OR driveway less than 5m² AND impermeable surface drains to lawn/border (not public sewer/road). Planning permission REQUIRED if: driveway over 5m² with impermeable surface (standard concrete) draining to public system, listed building, conservation area (check local rules), flat with shared access. Solution for large impermeable driveways: install drainage system directing water to soakaway/lawn. Alternative: use permeable concrete (porous concrete allowing drainage). Always check with Local Planning Authority before starting. Building Regulations DO NOT usually apply to driveways (not habitable building), but may apply if affecting drainage. See
gov.uk planning guidance.
Materials & Mixing Questions
What ratio for mixing concrete?
Common volumetric ratios (cement:sand:gravel): General purpose (equivalent C20/25): 1:2:4 - 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts gravel/aggregate. Foundation mix: 1:3:6 (leaner mix). Paving slabs: 1:2:3 (richer mix). By weight more accurate: C20/25 approximate: 350kg cement, 600kg sand, 1200kg coarse aggregate, 200 liters water per m³. Water-cement ratio critical: 0.5-0.6 for general work (too much water = weak concrete). Modern practice uses ready-mix rather than volumetric mixing for consistency and strength guarantee. If DIY mixing: invest in cement scales, never guess water content, mix thoroughly (3-5 minutes minimum), use clean materials. However, ready-mix strongly recommended for structural work.
Can I add water to concrete on site?
Strongly NOT recommended - adding water drastically reduces concrete strength. Each 0.05 increase in water-cement ratio reduces strength approximately 5-10%. Problems: weakens concrete permanently (can't be reversed), increases shrinkage and cracking, reduces durability, voids supplier warranty and BS EN 206 compliance, violates specified mix design. If concrete arrives too stiff: proper solution is adding plasticizer admixture (not water) with supplier approval. BS EN 206 prohibits water addition unless producer authorizes AND final water-cement ratio remains within specification. Many suppliers refuse payment if unauthorized water added. If workability issues, contact supplier for: plasticizer addition, extended mixing, or replacement load. Never add water just for easier placing - use correct specification from outset.
What is slump and why does it matter?
Slump measures concrete workability/consistency. Test: fill 300mm cone, compact, lift cone, measure vertical settlement in mm. Classes: S1 (10-40mm) very stiff - difficult to work, rarely used. S2 (50-90mm) stiff - standard for most reinforced work, requires effort to place. S3 (100-150mm) medium - most common for general use, easy placing. S4 (160-210mm) fluid - congested reinforcement, awkward pours. S5 (≥220mm) very fluid - self-leveling, requires superplasticizer. Why matters: too low = won't flow, poor compaction, voids. Too high = segregation (aggregate settles), bleeding (water rises), weak surface. Specify slump for your application. Typical: S2-S3 for most domestic work, S4 for complex formwork/dense reinforcement. Never increase slump by adding water - use specified slump from outset.
What are concrete admixtures?
Admixtures are chemicals added to modify concrete properties: (1) Plasticizers/superplasticizers - improve workability without extra water, or reduce water for higher strength (most common). (2) Retarders - slow setting in hot weather or long hauls (£5-10/m³). (3) Accelerators - speed setting in cold weather or fast-track construction (£10-20/m³). (4) Air-entraining agents - create microscopic bubbles improving freeze-thaw resistance, essential for external UK work (£5-10/m³). (5) Waterproofers - reduce permeability for basements, water tanks (£10-25/m³). (6) Colorants - pigments for decorative concrete (£15-30/m³). Benefits: improve performance, solve specific problems, cost-effective vs alternative solutions. Specify admixtures when ordering - supplier adds during batching. All must comply with BS EN 934-2.
What is GGBS or PFA concrete?
GGBS (Ground Granulated Blast Furnace Slag) and PFA (Pulverized Fuel Ash/fly ash) are cement replacements improving concrete: GGBS: steel industry byproduct, replaces 30-70% cement, improves long-term strength (slower early strength), enhances chemical resistance (marine, sulfates), reduces permeability, lowers carbon footprint 50-70%, common in UK for durable structures. PFA: coal power station byproduct (increasingly scarce as coal phased out), replaces 15-35% cement, similar benefits to GGBS. Designated as CEM II or CEM III in BS EN 197-1. Downsides: slower strength gain (extends curing), cold weather more problematic. Benefits: superior durability, sustainability, often cheaper. Common in RC structures, foundations, marine work. Specified by cement type when ordering: CEM I (pure Portland), CEM II (5-35% replacement), CEM III (35-70% GGBS).
Standards & Regulations
What is BS EN 206?
BS EN 206 is the primary European standard for concrete specification, performance, production, and conformity adopted throughout UK. Defines: strength classes (C8/10 to C100/115), exposure classes (XC, XD, XF, XS, XA), minimum cement content, maximum water-cement ratios, testing requirements, conformity criteria, production control. All UK ready-mix must comply with BS EN 206. Works with BS 8500 (complementary British Standard providing UK-specific guidance and designated mixes). Replaced old BS 5328. Essential for: specifying concrete, ensuring quality, Building Regulations compliance, structural design per Eurocode 2. Current edition: BS EN 206:2013+A2:2021. See our
BS EN 206 Guide.
What is BS 8500?
BS 8500 is the complementary British Standard to BS EN 206, providing UK-specific concrete guidance. Two parts: Part 1 - specification and conformity (concrete specifying), Part 2 - materials and production (for producers). Key features: designated concrete mixes (GEN, RC, PAV, FND) simplifying specification, UK exposure class requirements, durability guidance for UK climate, practical guidance for specifiers. Advantages over detailed prescription: simple ordering ("order GEN3" vs detailed mix design), transfers responsibility to producer, ensures compliance automatically. Most common UK specs: GEN3 (domestic floors/foundations), RC25 (structural RC work), PAV1 (heavy-duty paving). Current edition: BS 8500-1:2015+A2:2019. Essential reference for anyone specifying concrete in UK. Works in conjunction with BS EN 206.
Do I need Building Regulations approval?
Building Regulations approval required for: new buildings and extensions, structural alterations, foundations and structural elements, building conversions, some replacement work. NOT required for: most driveways, patios, and paths (unless affecting drainage), garden walls under 1m (2m if not near boundary), some repairs and maintenance. Concrete work requiring approval: house foundations (Part A Structure), floor slabs if structural, retaining walls, integral garages, extension bases. Submit to: Local Authority Building Control OR Approved Inspector before work starts. Process: submit plans, pay fees (£200-500 typical), inspections during work, completion certificate issued. Working without required approval: illegal, difficulty selling property, insurance issues, potential demolition orders. Check with Local Authority if uncertain - brief phone call clarifies requirements. See
gov.uk Building Regulations.
What is Eurocode 2?
Eurocode 2 (BS EN 1992) is the European standard for design of concrete structures, replacing BS 8110 in UK. Covers: reinforced and prestressed concrete design, material properties and design values, ultimate limit state design (strength), serviceability limit state design (deflection, cracking), durability requirements, detailing rules. Used by structural engineers for: calculating reinforcement requirements, determining member sizes, designing foundations, beams, columns, slabs. UK National Annex specifies UK-specific parameters. Not for DIYers - requires professional structural engineer qualification. All new structural concrete must be designed to Eurocode 2 - BS 8110 withdrawn. Complex calculations ensure structures safe, compliant, economical. See our
Eurocode 2 Guide.
What are exposure classes?
Exposure classes in BS EN 206/BS 8500 define environmental conditions concrete experiences, determining minimum specification: XC (carbonation corrosion): XC1 dry/permanently wet, XC2 wet/rarely dry, XC3 moderate humidity, XC4 cyclic wet/dry. XD (chloride corrosion non-seawater): XD1 moderate, XD2 wet/rarely dry, XD3 cyclic wet/dry. XF (freeze-thaw): XF1 moderate water/no salt, XF2 moderate water/salt, XF3 high water/no salt, XF4 high water/salt. XS (chloride seawater): XS1 airborne salt, XS2 submerged, XS3 tidal/splash. XA (chemical attack): XA1 slightly aggressive, XA2 moderately, XA3 highly. Each class specifies minimum: strength grade, cement content, water-cement ratio, cover depth. Example: external UK driveway typically XC3/XC4 + XF1 (freeze-thaw). Proper classification ensures durability for design life (typically 50 years).
Suppliers & Delivery
How do I find concrete suppliers near me?
Finding local suppliers: (1) Online search "ready mix concrete near [postcode]" - typically shows suppliers within 15 miles. (2) Major national chains: Hanson, Tarmac, Cemex, Aggregate Industries, Breedon - have branches nationwide. (3) Local independents - often cheaper, more flexible. (4) Builder's merchant recommendations. (5) QSRMC (Quality Scheme for Ready Mixed Concrete) website lists certified suppliers. Get quotes from 3-5 suppliers comparing: per m³ price by grade, delivery charges, minimum orders, small load surcharges, included waiting time, available delivery times. Choose based on: competitive pricing, good reviews, BS EN 206 certification, reliable delivery reputation, technical support. Local suppliers (within 10 miles) minimize delivery costs significantly.
What to ask when ordering concrete?
Essential information to provide: (1) Grade/specification - e.g., "C20/25" or "GEN3", (2) Quantity - cubic metres needed plus 10% contingency, (3) Slump class - S2, S3, S4 (ask supplier recommendation if unsure), (4) Aggregate size - typically 20mm, (5) Special requirements - air entrainment, admixtures, fast/slow set, (6) Delivery address and access, (7) Delivery date and time. Questions to ask supplier: What's included in price?, Delivery charge?, Minimum order and surcharge?, Free waiting time allowance?, What happens if late/not ready?, Cancellation policy?, Payment terms?, Can truck access site directly? Get written confirmation of: grade, quantity, total price, delivery time. Verify you'll have: adequate labor ready, formwork complete, clear access for truck, area ready to receive concrete.
How long do I have to use delivered concrete?
Standard specification: concrete must be placed within 2 hours of mixing (from batching plant time, not arrival time). Factors affecting time: temperature (hotter = faster setting), retarders (extend time to 3-4 hours), cement type, distance from plant. Typical UK delivery timing: 30-45 minutes free waiting time included, £60-100/hour waiting charges after free period. Problems with delays: concrete begins to set, workability reduces, difficult to place and finish, strength compromised, may refuse to pour if too stiff. BE READY before concrete arrives: formwork complete, labor on site, clear access, tools prepared, initial checks done. If delayed: contact supplier immediately - may add retarder, but can't hold indefinitely. Wasted concrete expensive - typically charged full price even if unusable due to customer delay.
Can concrete trucks access my site?
Standard concrete truck dimensions: length 8-10m, width 2.5m, height 3.5-4m, weight when loaded 26-32 tonnes. Access requirements: minimum 3m width, firm level surface, adequate turning space (9-10m diameter), 4m overhead clearance (tree branches, wires), no weight restrictions (weak bridges, manhole covers). Check: can truck drive to pour location?, ground firm enough for 30 tonne vehicle?, turning space to exit?, neighbors' parked cars not blocking? If NO direct access: concrete pump needed (£200-400 extra), wheelbarrows (very labor-intensive, only viable small jobs <1m³), alternative access route. Measure your access route carefully - even 2.3m width creates problems. Inform supplier of access limitations when ordering - they may recommend: smaller mixer truck (4-6m³ loads), pump hire, alternative delivery method. Site visits help verify access.
What if I order too much/little concrete?
TOO MUCH: supplier typically takes back unused concrete (may charge disposal fee £20-50/m³ or full price), can't be reused - concrete is use-or-lose, expensive waste. Prevention: calculate carefully, add only 5-10% contingency, verify formwork volumes, communicate accurately with supplier. TOO LITTLE: major problem - can't stop mid-pour, emergency delivery expensive (£100-200 extra) and time-consuming (1-2 hours), cold joints weaken structure, may need to remove day's work and restart. Prevention: calculate carefully, add 10% contingency, round up to nearest 0.5m³, verify calculations with supplier, have slight excess rather than deficit. Better to have 0.3m³ excess than 0.3m³ shortfall. Excess concrete uses: fill low spots, make stepping stones, test cubes, garden features. Plan where excess goes before delivery.
Installation & Construction
How do I prepare for concrete delivery?
Essential preparation: (1) Excavation complete to correct depth, (2) Sub-base installed and compacted (MOT Type 1), (3) DPM (damp-proof membrane) laid if required, (4) Formwork/shuttering in place and secure, (5) Reinforcement fixed if specified, (6) Levels checked and marked, (7) Clear access from road to pour location, (8) Adequate labor ready (3-4 people for driveway), (9) Tools prepared: shovel, rake, bull float, screed board, trowel, (10) Protection for adjacent areas (driveways, paths). Day before: recheck all formwork, confirm delivery time, verify labor arranged, check weather forecast. On day: be ready 30 minutes early, have one person directing truck, never rush but work steadily, have contingency plan if truck delayed/concrete wrong.
How do you finish concrete?
Finishing sequence: (1) Screeding - immediately after pour, drag straight edge across formwork removing excess, creating level surface. (2) Bull floating - within 15-30 minutes, large flat tool smooths screed marks, pushes aggregate down, brings cream to surface. (3) Edging - use edging tool along formwork creating rounded edges preventing chipping. (4) Jointing - cut control joints (3-4m spacing) to direct cracking. (5) Final finishing - when surface water evaporates (timing critical): Brushed - stiff brush creates textured non-slip surface, or Troweled - smooth steel trowel creates dense smooth finish. Timing crucial: too early brings water up (weak surface), too late impossible to work. Watch for bleed water evaporation. External concrete use brushed finish (non-slip). Takes practice - consider professional finisher for large areas.
Why do you need expansion joints?
Actually need CONTROL JOINTS (not expansion joints for concrete). Control joints: deliberate weakened lines directing where concrete cracks, accommodate shrinkage (concrete shrinks 0.03-0.06% while curing), prevent random unsightly cracks. Install: every 3-4m in both directions, around obstacles (drains, manholes), at direction changes, at junctions with existing concrete. Creation methods: cut with saw when concrete semi-hard (6-12 hours after pour) to 1/4 depth, or form during pour with tool, or install preformed joint filler. Expansion joints (compressible material-filled) needed where: concrete meets existing structures, between new/old work, very large areas (car parks). Spacing: every 25-30m for expansion joints vs 3-4m for control joints. Without joints: random cracking throughout slab (ugly, allows water penetration), potential for major structural cracking. Always include control joints - minor cost prevents major problems.
Do I need a sub-base under concrete?
YES - sub-base essential for almost all concrete work. Sub-base provides: stable platform preventing settlement, drainage layer (water away from concrete), frost protection (prevents heave), load distribution (reduces pressure on ground). Standard specification: 100-150mm compacted MOT Type 1 (crushed limestone/aggregate mix, well-graded 0-40mm). Installation: excavate to adequate depth (concrete thickness + sub-base + topsoil removal), install geotextile fabric if ground soft, place sub-base in 50mm layers, compact each layer thoroughly with wacker plate, check levels carefully. Skimping on sub-base = eventual cracking and failure. Cost: £10-15/m² installed - cheap insurance vs concrete repairs (£50-100/m²). Only omit sub-base if: solid rock substrate, engineer specifically approves (rare). Proper sub-base more important than extra-thick concrete.
What is DPM and do I need it?
DPM (Damp-Proof Membrane) is plastic sheet (typically 1200 gauge polyethylene) preventing moisture rising into concrete. Need DPM for: ground-bearing floor slabs (essential for Building Regulations), areas where dampness unacceptable, beneath heated slabs, where finishes moisture-sensitive (vinyl, wood on concrete). May omit for: external driveways (dampness acceptable), patios and paths, where concrete purely structural. Installation: place on sub-base before concrete, overlap sheets 150mm minimum, seal joints with tape, turn up at edges (minimum 150mm above concrete level), no holes or tears (patch immediately). Common mistake: forgetting DPM causes: rising dampness through concrete, failed floor coverings (adhesive failure), mold and damp issues, Building Control rejection. Cost: £2-3/m² - tiny cost vs remedial work (thousands). Always use for internal floors - Building Regulations Part C requirement.
How do I cure concrete properly?
Proper curing maintains moisture for hydration reaction - essential for strength development. Methods: (1) Water curing - keep continuously wet with sprinkler/soaker hose for 7 days (most effective), (2) Curing compound - spray-on membrane sealing moisture in (convenient for large areas), (3) Plastic sheeting - cover with polyethylene weighted down (prevents drying), (4) Wet hessian/burlap - keep damp fabric on surface (labor-intensive). Duration: minimum 7 days for normal concrete, 14 days for GGBS/PFA concrete, longer in cold weather. Start: immediately after finishing (within 2-4 hours). Poor curing consequences: 30-50% strength loss, surface dusting and weakness, increased shrinkage cracking, reduced durability. Don't rush - 7 days patience prevents lifetime of problems. Spray curing compound (£15-25/5L) easiest for DIY.
When can I walk/drive on new concrete?
Conservative timeline: Light foot traffic 24-48 hours (concrete hardened but still gaining strength), Normal walking 3-4 days (minimal risk of damage), Light vehicle traffic (cars) 7 days MINIMUM, preferably 10-14 days, Full loading/heavy vehicles 28 days (full design strength achieved). Factors affecting timeline: temperature (cold slows, heat accelerates - adjust accordingly), cement type (rapid-hardening gains faster), grade (higher grades gain faster initially), loading type (heavier loads need longer). Rushing risks: surface damage and marking, internal microcracking (weakens concrete permanently), premature failure. Be patient - 7 extra days waiting vs years of premature deterioration is obvious choice. Mark new concrete clearly to prevent accidental traffic. For critical timing, test cubes confirm strength development.
Maintenance & Repairs
How do I maintain a concrete driveway?
Regular maintenance extends life 50-100%: Annual tasks: power wash to remove dirt, algae, oil stains (spring), reapply sealer if using (every 2-3 years for decorative finishes), inspect for cracks and repair promptly, clean drainage channels. Immediate attention: oil/chemical spills - clean immediately (petroleum damages concrete), de-icing salts - rinse off, don't use in first winter, standing water - address drainage issues, vegetation - remove weeds from cracks. Every 3-5 years: reseal decorative finishes (pattern imprinted, exposed aggregate), repair/replace damaged areas. Avoid: metal snow shovels (use plastic), rock salt first winter, pressure washer on fresh concrete (<1 year), parking heavy vehicles on edges. Cost: minimal if DIY (£20-50/year materials), professional cleaning £150-300, resealing £300-600 for typical driveway. Maintenance far cheaper than replacement (£1,500-4,000).
How do I repair cracked concrete?
Repair method depends on crack size: Hairline cracks (<1mm): concrete crack filler or flexible sealant, force into crack, smooth surface, mainly cosmetic. Small cracks (1-5mm): widen to 10mm with angle grinder, clean thoroughly, apply primer, fill with epoxy or polyurethane crack filler, seal surface. Large cracks (>5mm): investigate cause first (may indicate structural issue), widen to 20mm, undercut edges (wider at bottom), clean, prime, fill with epoxy mortar or rapid-set concrete, seal. Active cracks (still moving): require flexible repair or addressing underlying cause (settlement). Surface repairs: patch deteriorated areas with rapid-set concrete or epoxy mortar, feather edges, cure properly. When to replace vs repair: multiple cracks, extensive damage, structural concerns, age >30 years with widespread issues. Costs: DIY £10-50 materials, professional repair £100-300, replacement £1,500-4,000+ for driveway.
How do I remove oil stains from concrete?
Act fast - fresh stains easier to remove: Fresh oil: absorb immediately with cat litter/sawdust, leave 2-4 hours, sweep up, scrub with washing-up liquid and hot water, rinse thoroughly. Set stains: apply degreaser (£8-15/bottle), scrub with stiff brush, leave 15-30 minutes, pressure wash off. Stubborn stains: poultice method - mix absorbent (diatomaceous earth) with solvent, spread on stain, cover with plastic, leave 24 hours, remove and rinse. Commercial products: concrete oil stain remover (£10-20), follow instructions carefully. Prevention better than cure: use drip trays under vehicles, fix leaks immediately, seal concrete (makes cleaning easier). Heavy staining: professional cleaning services (£150-300), or accept patina (character!). Avoid: excessive pressure washing (damages surface), acids without proper neutralization, bleach (discolors concrete). Most important: treat spills immediately before penetration.
Should I seal my concrete driveway?
Depends on concrete type and priorities: Sealing benefits: easier cleaning, oil stain resistance, reduced water absorption, color enhancement (decorative finishes), slight freeze-thaw protection. When to seal: pattern imprinted/stamped concrete (essential - protects surface and color), exposed aggregate (recommended), plain concrete driveways (optional - mainly aesthetic). When NOT necessary: industrial/utilitarian areas, recently poured (<28 days), if preferring natural weathered appearance. Sealer types: acrylic (economical £20-40/5L, reapply every 2-3 years), polyurethane (durable £40-80/5L, 4-5 year lifespan), epoxy (industrial £80-150/kit, longest lasting). Application: clean thoroughly, let dry completely, apply thin even coats, usually 2 coats needed. Cost: DIY £50-150 for typical driveway, professional £300-600. Not essential for plain concrete functionality but improves appearance and maintenance.
How long does concrete last?
Design life and actual life differ: Standard design life: 50 years (typical for Building Regulations), 100+ years (major structures like bridges). Actual lifespan: domestic driveways 20-40 years (with maintenance), foundations 50-100+ years, industrial floors 30-50 years, properly specified exposed structures 50-100+ years. Factors affecting life: correct grade specification, adequate thickness, proper sub-base, good drainage, appropriate reinforcement, quality installation, regular maintenance, exposure severity, usage intensity. Early failure causes (<20 years): under-specification, poor installation, inadequate thickness, no sub-base, freeze-thaw damage, overloading. Extended life: proper specification + good installation + maintenance = 50-80 years even for driveways. Roman concrete structures still standing after 2000+ years demonstrate potential durability! Realistic expectation: domestic driveway 30-40 years, foundations 70-100+ years with proper specification.
Calculations & Quantities
How do I calculate concrete volume?
Basic formula: Length (m) × Width (m) × Thickness/Depth (m) = Volume (m³). Example calculations: Rectangular slab: 5m long × 3m wide × 0.1m thick = 5 × 3 × 0.1 = 1.5m³. Path: 10m long × 1m wide × 0.075m thick = 10 × 1 × 0.075 = 0.75m³. Circular area: π × radius² × thickness = 3.14 × 2² × 0.1 = 1.256m³. Irregular shapes: divide into rectangles, calculate each, add together. Important: convert all measurements to metres, convert thickness to metres (100mm = 0.1m, 150mm = 0.15m), always add 5-10% wastage/contingency. Common mistake: mixing units (e.g., cm and m) gives wrong answer. Use our
Concrete Calculator for automatic calculations including wastage.
How many square metres in a cubic metre?
Depends on thickness - volume and area measure different things: Formula: 1m³ ÷ thickness (m) = area (m²) covered. Common conversions: 1m³ at 100mm (0.1m) thick = 10m², 1m³ at 150mm (0.15m) thick = 6.67m², 1m³ at 75mm (0.075m) thick = 13.33m², 1m³ at 200mm (0.2m) thick = 5m². Reverse calculation (area to volume): area (m²) × thickness (m) = volume (m³). Example: 30m² driveway at 100mm thick = 30 × 0.1 = 3m³ needed. Remember: thicker concrete requires more cubic metres for same area. Quick reference: 100mm thick (most common domestic) = 10m² per m³. Essential for: estimating quantities, comparing quotes, planning orders.
How much does 1 cubic metre of concrete weigh?
Normal-weight concrete: approximately 2,400 kg (2.4 tonnes) per m³. Variation by type: standard ready-mix (2,300-2,400 kg/m³), lightweight concrete (1,400-1,900 kg/m³), heavyweight concrete (>2,600 kg/m³ - radiation shielding). Why it matters: structural calculations (dead load), truck weight limits (truck + 6m³ concrete = 26-32 tonnes), bearing capacity of ground, floor loading calculations, transport logistics. Related weights: cement 1,440 kg/m³, sand 1,600 kg/m³, aggregate 1,500 kg/m³, water 1,000 kg/m³. For design: use 2,400 kg/m³ standard unless specified otherwise. Wet concrete heavier than cured (contains excess water), but design assumes 2,400 kg/m³. Important for: checking floor can support concrete thickness, confirming truck can access site, structural design calculations.
How many bags of cement per cubic metre?
Depends on mix strength: C20/25 equivalent: approximately 300-350kg cement = 12-14 bags (25kg bags) or 7-8 bags (50kg bags). C25/30 equivalent: 350-400kg cement = 14-16 bags (25kg) or 8-9 bags (50kg). General purpose mix (1:2:4): 350kg = 14 × 25kg bags. Complete mix for 1m³ C20/25: cement 350kg (14 bags), sand 600-700kg, aggregate 1,150-1,200kg, water 175-200 litres. Why ready-mix superior: precise batching (difficult achieving with bags), consistent quality, time savings (mixing 1m³ = 14+ hours), physical effort, actually cheaper for volumes >1m³. Bagged concrete only viable: very small jobs (<0.5m³), no ready-mix access, unlimited time available. Cost comparison: 1m³ bagged DIY £250-350 materials + huge labor vs ready-mix delivered £100-120. Use ready-mix wherever possible.
What is concrete coverage calculator?
Coverage calculator converts between volume (m³) and area (m²) at specified thickness. Essential for: estimating concrete needed for area, comparing quotes (per m² vs per m³), planning deliveries, budgeting projects. Basic calculation: Volume (m³) = Area (m²) × Thickness (m). Quick reference table 100mm thickness: 1m³ covers 10m², 2m³ covers 20m², 3m³ covers 30m², 5m³ covers 50m². For 150mm thickness: 1m³ covers 6.67m², 3m³ covers 20m². Our
Concrete Calculator automatically: calculates volume from dimensions, converts area to volume, adds appropriate wastage, estimates costs, suggests delivery requirements. Always add 5-10% extra for: irregular shapes, compaction, formwork imperfections, avoiding shortfall. Under-ordering bigger problem than slight excess.